Kids First Riders

[Jason Woelfel's account]

I don’t normally keep a journal, but in the interest of satisfying those inquiring minds out there I thought I’d make an exception. Besides, Arden Norvold sent us a very nice guide with pictures, schedule, and blank pages to write in. She’s Chairman of the Board and Kid’s First President. The transpacific flight to Asia lasted 14 hours. The trip to Hanoi was another 5. Though the trip was long, we adjusted quickly and hit the ground running. Our first day in Vietnam was Sunday, February 22nd.

Although the bike tour was the main event, our schedule was full of other activities that allowed us to explore the Vietnamese culture and its history. We arrived in Hanoi, the capital city of Vietnam, about 1:30pm. Hoan Kiem Lake in the center of town proved to be a great place to walk and sightsee. Many large, ancient trees lined the shores. Tortoise Tower sits on an island in the middle of the lake, tied to the legend of a magical sword used by emperor Le Loi to defeat the Chinese and given back to the Golden Turtle God. The ice cream in Vietnam is very good. After seeing enough of the lake, we ventured into the street commerce and markets of the city.

While approaching a streetside barber I suddenly remembered that I had forgotten my razor and my chin was getting itchy. I motioned to him and prepared for a relaxing shave. The straight razor blade was very dull and I began to get nervous, wondering what infections I could get from an open wound. My fears were unfounded, however, because this gentleman showed marvelous talent with his meager tools. My face was not as smooth as I would have gotten it, but it was worth $3.00. The rest of the afternoon was spent walking through town observing local shops, traffic, and a few monuments.

One particular landmark was a highlight of our stay in Hanoi; Ho Chi Minh’s tomb. He was the first communist leader of Vietnam. Tourists, school children, and local residents line up early in the morning to take the tour. No one is allowed to take anything inside, and a list of rules are posted for everyone to follow. To summarize, the line of visitors must remain two-abreast with no gaps, hands by your side, no smiling or talking - laughing is definitely not appropriate - and no stopping. One rule explains the dress code, “…no unserious costume,” which means wear long pants. It made us laugh. Good thing we were not in line when we read it. Every sign here has been translated with not-so-perfect English and is usually very entertaining to read. We did not expect to see Ho Chi Minh in the flesh, literally. It was like open casket, but more open so that everyone could see. The glass was very clear without even a blemish, though at an angle as we turned a corner I could see it ripple. I would have taken a picture if that was allowed. Pretty erie seeing this man decades after his death.

Also on our list of attractions in Hanoi was Hoa Lo Prison, jokingly referred to as Hanoi Hilton by the U.S. prisoners during the war.

It’s no surprise that our account of the war would be quite different than that presented by the Vietnamese government to its people. What was astonishing to us was how it was portrayed. There were photos of the U.S. prisoners eating Thanksgiving dinner together, decorating a Christmas tree, even receiving gifts from family members back home. They were playing games in the courtyard, reading books in what appeared to be more than adequate indoor accommodations, and generally living quite comfortably. We assume these photos were staged. Video presentations on flat screen televisions told a story of the Imperialist United States destroying entire villages without a conscience and killing women and children during the bombings. While everyone acknowledges that both sides did horrible things and caused much collateral damage, we just took it all in with great interest.

Later that night we visited Hoa Sua Training Restaurant, an NGO (Non Government Organization) and training school for disadvantaged youth. The food was excellent and the menu boasted an impressive selection of international cuisine, though Vietnamese and French were favored. Our mode of transportation was a scooter taxi. In the city scooters and motorcycles are everywhere. Traffic laws are somewhat optional. Putting our lives in the hands of our drivers seemed too easy.

Once aboard all we could do was hold on tight, lean into the curve, and try to hold back the urge to shout expletives. I was on one scooter with Ann Lou. We ended up at the wrong restaurant, and Cheryl waited patiently for us at the correct location. It was a bit unnerving not having cell phone access to communicate. Luckily we were only two blocks away, finding a foreigner who was in town on business to guide us to the right place.

After a day-and-a-half in Hanoi, it was time to move on. Before starting our bike tour, we headed to Ha Long Bay for a welcomed respite from the busy city scene. The bay is very calm and contains 1,969 islands forming a unique and very beautiful landscape. Tourism is a growing industry in Vietnam. The service provided is exceptional and made our stay very comfortable and enjoyable. The food on our boat was very delicious and presented in fine dining fashion. We had five or six courses for each mid-day and evening meal. Soup would usually start the feast, followed by an appetizer like squid or crab.

Seafood is abundant, so we’d have grilled varieties of fish and shrimp. Chicken and pork were also common. Greens were almost always present, such as cabbage, spinach and morning glories. For dessert, sweet fruit completed our culinary experience.

Kayaking took us under and through a small cave carved out in the rock to a lagoon – home to a family of monkeys. We spent ten minutes watching their antics before retreating to the boat. Other activities included swimming, hiking one of the islands to get a panoramic view of the bay, and touring a large cave with three large chambers. Waking early the next day, morning light on the calm waters amidst the uniquely shaped mountains was magical. Soon, we headed back in to port and drove to our starting point for the bike ride.

Our first day of riding began later than expected, at 4:45pm. We rode until it began getting dark at 6:15pm. That night in Thanh Hoa we stayed in a hotel with meager accommodations. I had to jiggle each of the light fixtures before they turned on. Also the bed was very firm. The bathroom had a hand sprayer attached to one wall serving as the shower. It turns out that tubs and curtains are a luxury in these parts. The next day gave us beautiful weather and great scenery to bike through.

We started along the Gulf of Tonkin, winding our way through fertile farmland and small villages, the road occasionally taking us back to picturesque overlooks of the ocean. Rice paddies are everywhere and we saw many large catholic churches during the next few days, rising from the earth in the distance. While passing through local communities, children would run out to greet us and yell, “Hello.” Starting in elementary school, they are required to learn another language; English or French. In one village, some boys rode next to us and one wanted to race. He was very quick, with vegetables sticking out of his basket in the front, as if taking a moment from his chores to have a little fun. I felt like I had an unfair advantage with 24 speeds on my Trek mountain bike. His one-speed bike was a little too large for him and rattled loudly on the bumpy unpaved road.

Some games we saw children play include soccer, volleyball, hacky sac, and ping pong (table tennis). During mid-day break we saw children traveling on bike to and from school, dressed in blue and white uniforms. Many students bike in pairs – that is, two on one bike. Both share the pedals and therefore share the work. One thing I noticed is that there is a lot of camaraderie among young people. Girls often link arms or hold hands while walking together; boys with their hand on the other’s shoulder.

Along the ocean and crossing rivers, we saw many boats, nets and fishermen. There is a lot of seafood in all parts of Vietnam. We stopped for lunch at this beachside restaurant and less than two minutes after sitting down in the lounge chairs we were surrounded by women peddling their wares. We decided to take a walk on the beach and were rewarded with the sight of fishermen (and women) at work. They were hauling in a net with their catch of the day. Each person had a position on the net, using a wooden plank as a seat behind them attached to the net with string, they pulled their section toward shore. Once they had reached a certain point, they would detach and move up to first position and start pulling again. The catch was rather small by my standards, but after sorting the fish, squid, and some things I didn’t recognize, I guess it was a respectable amount. Something tells me they don’t waste anything. Back at the restaurant lunch was edible.

Not our favorite meal by a long shot. We had to shell the small crabs ourselves. Flies were a problem. The chicken dish had bones and the greens were not very tasty. But, the view was nice!

Overnight in Dong Hoi greeted us with more meager accommodations, though we didn’t have much trouble sleeping after an active day of riding. The next day we toured the Vinh Moc Tunnels complex used during the war by villagers to escape the bombing. The thick clay soil made all of this possible, but it is amazing that they were able to dig by hand through so much space. The rooms were small and the headroom extremely limited. Three levels gave access to the sea and were well hidden from the enemy. This underground city included living quarters, kitchens, hospitals, weapons factories, storage areas and command centers, lit by oil burning lamps.

Within these tunnels children went to school, women gave birth, and people entertained themselves. Vents throughout the system served different functions; letting in air, dissipating cooking smoke, and allowing approaching helicopters to be heard. These particular tunnels housed up to 400 people at one time, and was occupied for two years.

Making our way through more countryside, I came across two bulls butting heads. As you might expect, livestock has the right-of-way. At various locations elaborate graves stand out as monuments honoring the deceased. It is customary for people to be buried on their own land, in the middle of rice paddies. Some grave sites accommodate an entire village. After taking a short break from riding to visit the famous bridge location along the 17th parallel where a lot of soldiers were killed, we pressed on to visit the Kids First village.

At Kids First, we received an update from John Ward, Village Director. We poked our head in a couple of classes: embroidery and sewing. Kids work on their certification so that they can get jobs in local factories. The programs here are better than average, so they have a good chance of success when they complete their coursework. Most students are between semesters, so the campus was pretty empty.

The wheel chair manufacturing facility was in full swing and very impressive. Each chair is custom fitted to the recipient. The student chefs made us lunch, which was one of the best meals of the trip. My favorite: the squid. Two colorful murals brighten up a building’s exterior, painted by University of Michigan students who visited last May. They planted trees and performed various volunteer activities during their 10-day trip. The new student dormitory was nearing completion, and the baseball diamond was an unexpected sight. It turns out that a volunteer had started a T-ball program that lasted a year but now the field is no longer in use. As we left, we gave some donated supplies to John that we had brought with us, and he gave us a t-shirt and memento of Kids First. We left feeling good about a well-run organization that is changing lives for the better and giving disadvantaged young people a chance to be independent. Next stop: Hue.

As dusk enveloped us we passed two mothers on bikes – each with their daughter – riding to dance class or a recital (we weren’t sure). They were dressed up wearing makeup. These girls couldn’t have been more than 10 years old. Another memorable sight I remember is that of older school girls with traditionally long hair in ponytails, wearing white silk uniforms. These garments look somewhat like pajamas with long sleeves and loose fitting pants. Once in Hue, we checked into perhaps the most elegant and comfortable hotel of the entire trip. I was able to access wireless Internet for the first time. Joy! Before leaving Hue, we toured the citadel and its many ancient buildings.

Our bike ride for the day took us through farmland to an ancient royal tomb of one of the emperors. On the way to Hoi An we stopped by an orphanage where Anna Lou dropped off some hygiene items for the children. The children sang us a song, “If you’re happy and you know it…” in their own language. For lunch, we stopped by a local restaurant that turned out to be a highlight of our trip. The waiter’s mother cooked all our meals and took great interest in whether or not we enjoyed the food. It was superb. Prior to eating I relaxed in a hammock, which it turns out is quite plentiful in this region. We also enjoyed playing ping pong and looking at the waiter’s coin collection which included currency from all corners of the globe. He even had a Texas quarter.

Hoi An was probably the most picturesque town we visited. As we biked through this ancient city of brightly colored golden yellow buildings, we traversed a network of quaint streets lined with clothing shops, old markets, and fine restaurants. One of the attractions included a historic Japanese bridge and pagoda where people pray and bring offerings. Next door we toured an old house that has remained one family’s home for 8 generations. This family is in the embroidery business, making table clothes, napkins and clothing. Taking this opportunity to rest upstairs, we sat down for a cup of hot tea with one of the daughters and marveled at the construction and history of the place. Later in the afternoon we shopped for clothing and had several jackets custom made. Each garment was made within a few hours. The nearby beach is approximately 5km from town – a quick 20 minute ride, where we swam in the South China Sea. Back in town at the market, I purchased my favorite coffee, Tung Nguyen, usually made with sweet condensed milk. The Vietnamese way of making this coffee involves a metal cup on top that holds the grounds and hot water, dripping down into a lower cup. Yes, there were many aspects of Hoi An that made us appreciate the culture and the people’s hospitality.

After 5 days of riding, the bike tour portion of the trip was officially over; however, we still had plenty to see and do before returning home. Saigon (known officially as Ho Chi Minh City) is a very modern city compared to the places we have been up to this point. Here there are skyscrapers and modern buildings. In fact, the coffee shop across the street from our hotel had free Wifi.Our first encounter with the old market left us disappointed, though, for the vendors were downright rude. We chalked it up to increased tourism, but we still hoped for a more memorable experience (and better prices on souvenirs). A trip to the optometrist rewarded us with great prices on eyeglasses. Two pairs of glasses in the states would have set me back $700, but here I walked away paying only $120. Later that evening, feeling exhausted from days of riding and touring city streets on foot, Saigon seemed an appropriate place to try my first full-body Swedish massage. It was wonderful. In the evening, many vendors continue to sell goods and feed patrons on the sidewalk. As with other towns the streets are lined with shops of all types. Living quarters are often located in the back of the shop or upstairs. Most close around 9pm.

The extension of our trip took us to Cambodia for a few days, learning about the history and culture there. The guide in Phnom Penh was exceptional. She had an infectious laugh and knew a lot about the history. The mass genocide of the late 70s by the Khmer Rouge left behind many sites worthy of a visit. Our first stop was The Killing Fields, the largest grave in Cambodia. Overall more than 2 million people lost their lives over 4 years. At that time the entire population was only about 6 million. To honor the victims 8,000 skulls were excavated and placed inside a 10-level memorial called a stupa. Articles of clothing were included at the base. As we walked around, our guide told us that what appeared to be white stone protruding from the ground just beneath the surface was actually bones from the victims. Most remains are still buried. Clothing is strewn about the site. In keeping with the somber tone of the day we visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, an old prison and torture chambers that was once a high school.

Driving through town, the smell of smoke filled the air as workers burned leaves on the side of the road. When we arrived at the riverfront we saw people selling intricately carved fruit and pretty flower arrangements in a festival atmosphere, with food and games. This was a religious holiday, much like Sunday to us (in frequency), but more jovial like a celebration or carnival. A pagoda (place of worship) accepted offerings and prayers. Poor people begged, especially women with sick children. Farther down, a group of about 50 people were line dancing but not to country music. Some grown men (probably professionals) were kicking a hacky sac around. This version had feathers attached, making it fly in a nice arc through the air. Food vendors sold edible insects including cockroaches and grasshoppers. Later that evening we walked back down the riverfront area to eat and passed several large piles of smelly garbage. The food was great, but I have learned that sanitation is not up to our standards. I had already gotten sick once and had seen rats scurry across the floors in various places.

The next day we headed to Siem Reap – a six hour drive. Through town we noticed more children on the streets. Boys aged 10-12 were working construction sites and pushing wheelbarrows or pulling carts and trailers. Girls were seen selling all sorts of goods. Although school is free, many parents keep their children out, working to support the family. Kids may go for 4 years, then drop out, in stark contrast to the life we saw in Vietnam where most children attend school. In fact, Cambodia has a 35% literacy rate while 60% of the population is under age 20. On the banks of the river we saw shacks perched on the slope, held up precariously by wooden stilts. Here, many workers get paid in American dollars. So, there is no need to exchange currency. Since there are no coins, however, change is given in Cambodian money if it is less than a dollar. The government has no anti-corruption laws and things seem quite a bit more expensive here. In fact, Cambodia is the 2nd most corrupt country in the world, behind Berma. The government keeps most of the profits while the poor suffer. The country also tops the list in land mines, ahead of Afghanistan and Angola.

Continuing our journey to Siem Reap took us through farmland and small villages with markets for food and household items. These markets were very shoddy even when compared with Vietnam. Houses in the countryside were of much lower quality, too, thatched together using reeds and plant life. Most are on stilts so that domestic animals can take shelter underneath, I was told. Anna Lou remembers another purpose, however, of a superstitious nature. Small trucks ferried people from town to town. These “taxis” carried 25 people or more, piled up high. As with other farming communities we saw many kinds of animals, materials and crops being transported mostly by motorcycle and scooter; pigs, waterfowl, hay, wood, vegetables, etc. Our guide stopped at a local rest area he thought we would find interesting. A live tarantula was on display for entertainment. More edible insects were available for purchase. Anna Lou and Cheryl ate a tarantula leg. Cheryl regretted it. Further down the road men were chiseling stone statues, no doubt Buddhas.

Once in Siem Reap we toured many ancient temples dating back over 1,000 years. Anna Lou and Cheryl are more history buffs than I am and kept better notes. The temples were very grand with intricate stone carvings everywhere. Children worked in the tourist areas amongst the shops and at the temple sites, selling books and postcards. Our guide said they may get only 20-30% of the profits and lie about being orphaned, signs of a desperate people and corrupt government. One temple had many large silk cotton trees growing in the stones with far reaching roots. It was hard to imagine tens of thousands of workers building a temple over 15 years. Angkor Wat – the largest of them all – took 37 years to build. In all we must have toured about 8 temples, but I lost count. Angkor Wat was our last temple tour, but we still had things to see the next morning before leaving.

The floating villages on Tonle Sap Lake have been home to many Cambodians for centuries. A more literal translation actually means large fresh water river, its flow changing direction between the dry season and monsoon. During the dry season it empties into the Mekong River. During the monsoon the lake fills back up nearly 7 times its previous size. This pulsing system has created a rich, diverse ecosystem that supports 3 million Cambodians. In fact, it is one of the most productive inland fisheries in the world, and the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia. During our trip the water level was down to its minimum because it was the dry season. The water was brown in color and its stench made us cringe. It was hard to imagine this body of water producing fish. In addition to domiciles, we saw floating churches, a school, and a basketball court. Several floating restaurants accommodate tourists with food, souvenirs, and a glimpse of fish and alligators. Adults and children in boats surrounded the restaurants hoping tourists would give them money. One Asian man – possibly Japanese – gave some money to one family. His boat was later surrounded by other locals. After returning to town we had one last opportunity to shop in Siem Reap’s old market before heading to the airport.

Back in Saigon we spent our time shopping. For lunch we visited Pho 2000, named after Bill Clinton’s trip their in the year 2000. We didn’t figure a U.S. president would be taken anywhere with bad food, and our reasoning proved sound. My vegetable curry with tofu was the best I have ever had. Anna Lou and Cheryl enjoyed Pho (soup and noodles) and gave it rave reviews. There we noticed the rain coming down, hard! Although it wasn’t technically the rainy season yet, it didn’t take long before the streets were flooded. Lucky for me I was wearing sandals. It turns out the drainage in town wasn’t very good. At some intersections the water was up to our knees. Anna Lou – bless her heart – fell off one of the curbs into the water. She was alright, but our little adventure kept us laughing all afternoon. What a wonderful way to spend our last day in Vietnam! Photo Albums: Vietnam | Cambodia